A small selection of words published in Vanguards between 2018-2020. I reviewed new clothing and weaved brand stories for our sartorial-minded audience.
Samuel Smith’s Brewery & Pubs
Brand Story
It’s a relief to walk into a Samuel Smith’s pub. A little ping of excitement is released when you push open their heavy wooden doors and a dense wave of beer and conversation hits you. This is the pub to be in. You have made it.
Friendly staff. Victorian. No music ever. Grand yet homely. And a pint cheaper than most others (especially within the M25). It all comes together perfectly in a Sam Smith’s boozer.
An uncle and a nephew. The former makes a pint worthy of Peter Kay. The latter has dotted the country with some very fine drinking establishments (which serve some very fine beers). A matter of inheritance and dodgy-dealings left the Smith family split. The crafty John Smith side built a new brewery, taking with them the expertise established at the original brewery. The aptly named Old Brewery, was taken on by Samuel. This mark of authenticity still graces their beers and pubs: Samuel Smith’s Old Brewery. The family split is evident in the business-style of each brand. John Smith grew large, modernised and became part of the Heineken Group. Whereas Sam Smith’s stayed small, local and independent.
The old Tadcaster brewery is still very much ingrained into its community. Behind the pub next to the brewery, they keep magnificent white Shire horses which are still used five days a week to deliver casks around the town. Surely unnecessary. But it’s all part of the wonderfully idiosyncratic method of operating Sam Smith’s chooses to employ.
Similarly distinct is the new ‘law’ of their pubs which states that phones, tablets and laptops are not to be used within the premises. They claim it’s a way of fostering “social conversation.” It could work, but many dismiss it as another attempt by the brewery to control its patrons. Let them drink. And let them text.
That attempt to create the perfect drinking environment echoes across all their pubs. Everything in a Sam Smith’s is made by Sam Smith’s: from the lager to the bitter, the gin to the ginger beer. They have created a whole world in which all bears the name of its creator. It’s something to marvel at and can feel comforting too. On the other hand, it can feel like there’s a little too much control implemented. Its current boss, Humphrey Smith, has achieved a near mythical status thanks to his strict rules and reclusive attitude. He shapes the pub in his own vision from afar. He is its Creator.
The Princess Louise in London is my favourite Sam Smith’s pub. Located a short walk from Holborn station, the Princes Louise is a stunning experience. Ornately gilded mirrors decorate every wall. Snob screens provide snug spaces next to the bar for five or so friends. And an intricate ceiling is somewhere to get lost in if you find yourself bored by your companion’s conversation.
It was the Princess Louise that cemented my love for Sam Smith’s. Now, when I see that gold rose and glorious name emblazoned above a pub, I know that I’m in safe hands (even if those hands have exercised a little too much control for some). Whether I’ve been to that establishment before or not, I trust in that name. I trust in Samuel Smith’s.
Keen Sandals
Inventory
I’ve dilled. And I’ve dallied. But I think I’m ready to write about these little guys now.
Last week, I was gifted them for my birthday. Overjoyed to seem them in the box, I slipped them on. And my god, they’re comfy. Comfy in a way that my feet have not felt since those first pair of Clarks you get measured for when you’re a kid.
Over the last 7 days, I’ve tested them with and without socks. For long walks and short strolls. In the heat of Southern France and the rain of England. They have not failed me yet. That adjustable cord means they just get nice and snug with your feet throughout the day.
Take a look. The left and the right are colour opposites of each other, with one lace running around them from toe to heel. And the tongue is an awesome tie-dye effect. The sides are laced but open, allowing a cooling breeze to circulate, whilst also hiding unsightly toes.
They’re so good, so comfortable, that I think I might just stick to Keen footwear from now on. Trust me on this one.
Eastlogue Jacket
Inventory
First up, this M43 jacket (more of an overshirt really) in a stunningly deep and rich red. It comes in a versatile boxy fit with some large and useful pockets for all sorts of things — compass in one, map in the other? Contrasting black buttons are a nice touch.
But you know what’s a nicer touch? Bloody detachable sleeves! It’s conjuring childhood memories of exploring the Lake District with my grandparents. We’d wear trousers from the local outdoor shops that, at the drop of a hat, would turn into shorts. They were zipped (and annoying) but this jacket employs much smarter snap buttons.
I love it. But I do wonder what you do with the sleeves if you decide to transform in a beer garden?
Also up is another transforming garment. This reversible jacket. Beige on one side. Tiger came on the other. I’m a big fan of the tiger print. I wear my Sassafras tiger camo pants most weeks as they seem to be an easier camo pattern to fit into your wardrobe than most.
The beige side is more of a soft cotton affair whilst the other opts for a nylon and perhaps more functional feel.
I’m a fan of both. And both are a nice opportunity to be a bit bolder with your summer look this year.
Nicholas Daley Bucket Hat
Inventory
Nicholas’s clothes tell a story. The story of his heritage; the story of British multiculturalism; stories of music. His latest collection— SLYGO — tells a more personal, family one. “SLYGO” was the alias his father used when he DJd in Scotland in the late 70s and early 80s at a night called Reggae Klub that he ran with Nicholas’s mother. Reggae Klub was a pioneering institution that provided a diverse and accepting venue for minority communities. A place to let loose.
These stories weave their way into the garments. Graphic tees with “SLYGO”; colour ways that hark back to the late 70s; and this hat.
Take another look at it. It deserves it.
This wonderful hand knitted bucket hat. It feels Jamaican. It feels reggae and jazz. It’s sturdy … it’s rocksteady. Look how it forms giant valleys between its panels. The moat that runs around its brim. The contrasting stitching. The bucket hat has achieved new heights (literally).
And in its materials we find another story. It’s hand knitted from jute, a material with a strong history in Scotland, particular Dundee, which his mother’s family were involved with. In seeming contrast to this, Nicholas has chosen to have the hat made by Christys’ who have been crafting hats in London since 1773. Daley creates another rich tapestry of heritage and culture in a single item of clothing.
This is a special kind of item. There’s so much going on. So much to talk about. It would make any owner incredibly proud to wear it. Well done, Nicholas.